Sunday, 21 October 2018

M-Z

M

mackintosh-duncan-fawn-trench-coat-ss2010-1
Mac or Mack

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mackintosh

The Mackintosh raincoat (abbreviated as mac or mack) is a form of waterproof raincoat, first sold in 1824, made out of rubberised fabric. The Mackintosh is named after its Scottish inventor Charles Macintosh, though many writers add a letter k.

Although the Mackintosh style of coat has become generic, a genuine Mackintosh coat should be made from rubberised or rubber laminated material.


mandarin

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mandarin Collar

Also known as a cadet collar or chinese collar, it is a small standing collar, open at the front, based on traditional Manchu or Mongol-influenced Asian garments.


N

Norfolk Jacket

A loose, belted, single-breasted jacket with box pleats on the back and front, with a belt or half-belt. It was originally designed as a shooting coat that did not bind when the elbow was raised to fire. It was named either after the Duke of Norfolk or after the county of Norfolk and was made fashionable after the 1860s in the sporting circle of the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII, whose country residence was Sandringham House in Norfolk.

norfolk-jacket-tweed-1
Norfolk Jacket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


O
Outerwear

Clothing to be worn outside or clothes to be worn outside other garments.


P

Pancake hood

A pancake hood, commonly seen on duffel coats, is named so because it sits flat on the back. Its design stops it collecting rain or snow when not worn up.

Pancake hoods are larger than a normal hood as they were originally designed for military officers to wear over their hats.

Gloverall_Duffle_Coat_2
Pancake Hood on a Duffel coat

 

 

 

 


Parka

A parka is a type of coat with a hood, often lined with fur or faux fur and ranging from waist length to knee length. The hood protects the face from freezing temperatures and wind. The Caribou Inuit invented this kind of garment, originally made from caribou or seal skin, for hunting and kayaking in the frigid Arctic. Some Inuit anoraks require regular coating with fish oil to retain their water resistance.

Todays Parka’s are typically stuffed with down or a warm synthetic fiber.

mens-red-expedition-hooded-short-parka-p21829-30224_zoom
Waist Length Parka

 

 

 

 

 


Pea Coat

A pea coat is an outer coat, generally of a navy-coloured heavy wool, originally worn by sailors of European and later American navies.

Pea Coats are characterized by short length, broad lapels, double-breasted fronts, often large wooden, metal or plastic buttons, and vertical or slash pockets.

peacoat_mens_v1_2000x1150

 

 

 

 


pertexdetail
Pertex Nylon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Pertex

A lightweight and breathable fabric used to make clothing and equipment for camping, climbing and outdoor pursuits.Where most nylon fabrics wick moisture directly through the weave, Pertex actually spreads it over a broad area by capillary action.


shown placket
Placket Shown

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Placket

Also spelled Placquet, refers to the double layer of fabric that hold the buttons and buttonholes in a jacket. A placket can conceal the buttons or have them showing.

hidden placket
hidden placket

 

 

 

 

 

 


Poplin

Also called tabinet (or tabbinet), it is a strong fabric in a plain weave of any fiber or blend, with crosswise ribs that typically gives a corded surface.[1]

Poplin traditionally consisted of a silk warp with a weft of worsted yarn. In this case, as the weft is in the form of a stout cord the fabric has a ridged structure, like rep, which gave depth and softness to the lustre of the silky surface. The ribs run across the fabric from selvage to selvage.

Poplin is now made with wool, cotton, silk, rayon, polyester or a mixture of these. Being a plain under/over weave, if the weft and warp threads are of the same material and size, the effect is a plain woven surface with no ribbing. Clothing made from this material are easy to iron and do not wrinkle easily.


Preppy Look

Preppy refers to a subculture in the United States associated with the old private Northeastern university-preparatory schools. The term is used to describe a person seen as characteristic of a student of schools such has Harvard, Yale and Princeton.

Preppy fashion emerged in the late 1970s with cues from the original Ivy League style. Some typical preppy styles also reflect traditional upper-class leisure activities, once associated with the wealthy English who once had a strong political and social position in the Northeast and New England, such as polo, sailing, hunting, fencing, crew rowing, lacrosse, golf, tennis, rugby, and swimming.
This association with old English inspired outdoor activities can be seen in preppy fashion, through stripes and colors, equestrian clothing, plaid shirts, field jackets, and nautical-themed accessories.

preppy


Q


R

raglan
Raglan Sleeve Jacket Sketch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Raglan Sleeve

A type of sleeve whose distinguishing characteristic is to extend in one piece fully to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from underarm to collarbone giving the garment a relatively undefined look.

It is named after Lord Raglan, the 1st Baron Raglan, who is said to have worn a coat with this style of sleeve after the loss of his arm in the Battle of Waterloo.The Raglan sleeve was invented by coat producer Aquascutum, for Lord Raglan to allow him room to use his sword in battle. It gave greater movement to the wearer, instead of the usual sleeve head which was prefixed.


RipStop
Ripstop Weave

 

 

 

 

 

Ripstop

Ripstop fabrics are woven, often made from nylon, using a special reinforcing technique that makes them resistant to tearing and ripping.
During weaving, reinforcement threads are interwoven at regular intervals in a crosshatch pattern.
Ripstop nylon was developed in World War II as a replacement for silk in the production of parachutes.


S

Snap_Button
Stud Button

 

 

 

 

 

Stud Button

A fastener that fits onto a buttonhole on the front of a jacket or a pocket. Also known as a snap fastener it is a pair of interlocking discs made of metal and consisting of four parts, a cap, socket, stud and post.


Soft Shell Jacket

A waterproof jacket that is thin, breathable, and windproof.

Soft Shell Jacket
Soft Shell Jacket

 

 

 

 


Stow pocket

An integrated pocket on a cagoule or anorak that it fits into completely, so it can be stowed away with ease.


T

trenchcoat
Burberry Trench Coat

 

 

 

 

 

Trenchcoat

A trenchcoat is a raincoat made of waterproof heavy-duty cotton. It generally has a removable insulated lining, raglan sleeves, and the classic versions come in various lengths ranging from just above the ankles (the longest) to above the knee (the shortest).

Both Burberry and Aquasctum lay claim to the original design of the trench coat. Burberry’s began life as the Tielocken in the early 1900’s, the trench coat name came from the officers who wore it in the first World War hence the name.

Aquascutum claim to have designed the first one in 1850.


tweed

 

 

 

 

 

Tweed

Tweed is a rough, woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture. Originally called Tweel, It is usually woven with a plain weave, twill or herringbone structure. Colour effects in the yarn may be obtained by mixing dyed wool before it is spun. Tweed material is moisture resistant and very durable.
Scottish tweed is made in Harris, where in Ireland tweed manufacturing is mostly associated with County Donegal.


Twill

A twill is a textile weave with a pattern of parallel ribs. The weft thread is passed over one or more warp thread and so on with a step or offset between rows to create the diagonal pattern.

Twill
Twill

 

 

 

 

 


U


V

Velcro

Invented by Swiss engineer George de Mestral, in 1948 he came up with a hook and loop fastener, and then patented it in 1955.
Made from Nylon and Polyester it is in effect a lineal fabric strip with tiny hooks that catches onto another fabric strip with tiny loops which can attach temporarily.
The name Velcro comes from the French words velours(velvet) and crochet(hook).

velcro_tape_3
Velcro

 

 

 

 

 

 


W

Warp Yarn

In weaving cloth, the warp yarn is the set of lengthwise yarns that are held in tension on a frame or loom. The yarn that is inserted over-and-under the warp threads is called the weft.
Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end or end.
Warp means “that which is thrown across”
Very simple looms use a spiral warp, in which a single, very long yarn is wound around a pair of sticks or beams in a spiral pattern to make up the warp.

Warp-weft-yarn

 

 

 

 

 

 

Weft Yarn

In weaving the weft is the term for the thread or yarn which is drawn through the warp yarns to create cloth.
Warp is the lengthwise thread in a roll, while weft is the transverse thread.
The weft is a thread or yarn usually made of spun fibre. The original fibres used were wool, flax or cotton. Today, man-made fibres are often used in weaving. Because the weft does not have to be stretched on a loom in the way that the warp is, it can generally be less strong.


wax

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Waxed Jacket

A type of raincoat made from waxed cotton cloth, iconic of British country life. Today it is commonly worn for outdoor rural pursuits such as hunting, shooting and fishing. It is a cotton jacket made water-resistant by a paraffin-based waxing, typically with a tartan lining and a corduroy or leather collar. The main drawback of a waxed fabric is it’s lack of breathability.


X


Y

 

yoke

Yoke

A piece of cloth that fits across the neck and shoulders, that provides support for the looser part of the jacket.


Z


 

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